Gardening tips, gardening info and heaps of ideas to help gardeners of all experience get more out of their hobby and out of their gardens.
Practically every garden requires a hose. Yours may be small enough to survive with just an outdoor watering can but the majority of gardeners keep one somewhere in their yard.
The question is, "Where?"
Undoubtedly many lay where they were last used, bound together in large knots and causing all sorts of problems for later use and trip hazards for unsuspecting visitors. They risk perishing faster by cracking or splitting in the sun but without a hose holder they become an unwieldy tool in the garden.
So, the next question becomes, "What sort of hose holder?" Well, this is what this post is all about, contemporary and practical ways to store your garden hose. Here are seven options that might make this one task a little more simpler:






Choosing a hose holder is usually a discussion on practicalities, and while there are some points to consider why not have some fun with it at the same time.
Citrus are one of those ubiquitous plants that adorn most gardens offering fruit for the home gardener but also producing their fair share of problems too. It seems that many home gardens offer at least one lemon, orange, or grapefruit tree while others have delved into the less traditional varieties and explored tangellos, mandarins and the odd kumquat tree. Yet, for many reasons, the quintessential lemon is now being replaced by dwarf citrus trees.
It's no surprise, really. Our diminishing yard sizes and the limited space we now have to garden in primarily dictates the type of plants that we grow. No longer are home gardeners able to plant 2-3 citrus trees, plus a few other fruiting trees and ornamentals. Now we have the choice to select one small tree - and one only.
So, it makes sense that dwarf citrus trees are growing in popularity. Their small stature works in confined spaces yet their yields are disproportionate to their dwarfish size. Plus, if you're not into the idea of growing a fruit salad tree then it makes logical sense that dwarf is the way to go.
To define what a "dwarf" citrus tree is it makes sense to start with what it's not. Some gardeners can often be duped into buying so-called dwarf citrus trees that are really just immature versions of a larger tree.
True dwarfs are grafted onto smaller growing rootstock and produce same-sized fruit even though the tree remains small. It's almost impossible to identify from the graft whether the tree is a dwarf or not as most citrus are grown from grafted rootstock these days so it pays to buy from a reputable dealer that is willing to guarantee their stock.
Looking after dwarf citrus trees is a cinch and provided they are kept moist, fertilised twice annually and pruned every 2-3 years you can expect your tree to produce happily. They are no more susceptible to pests and diseases than their towering counterparts but they do have problems with branches breaking under the strain of the fruit. Therefore, it is wise to remove some of the fruit prior to maturity to aid the tree in supporting it all.
These trees are great pot specimens and can happily exist in containers for many years provided they are repotted every 2 years and their root structures trimmed back. Don't try this when they're fruiting but wait for their dormant period.
Window shades and blinds seem to go against the grain of natural thinking. Firstly, they're usually made from non-organic materials and secondly they exhibit that the homeowner has taken little thought for their garden planning. A few well-located deciduous trees or vines and shade on your windows will be your last concern.
For instance, our main bedroom faces west where we get all the afternoon sun in the warmer months that could turn the room into a sauna. Instead, we planted a trio of silver birches that act as natural window shades during the summer yet allow warmth into the room in winter. And, the best part is that they require very little maintenance - if any at all.
There are very few situations where a deciduous tree or creeper couldn't help shade your windows. Even in an apartment an overhanging trellis could easily accomodate a creeper that offers relief during summer.
Window shades can be quite expensive, especially if the most of your windows are facing east or west. On the other hand, the alternative option - planting and growing a deciduous tree to offer shade can cost as little as $50 (maybe less) per window - that's some very cheap window shades. The ongoing maintenance off your window shades is also another concern and can be quite time-consuming. Compare that with raking a few leaves and the odds are certainly stacking up in the non-evergreen's corner.
For those who don't have room outside their windows to plant trees or vines, the next best option is selecting blinds that come from organic sources. Many shades are constructed from aluminium or non-renewable hardwood timbers adding to the environmental woes.
However, there are some smart operators that now offer bamboo window shades constructed entirely from renewable, organic bamboo. They're tough enough to last as long as hardwood timbers and still light enough to give aluminium a run for its money.
Hunter Douglas window shades are one company that not only offers bamboo as an option but also create reed, grass and natural replaceable woods. But, they're not the only ones. Many are now moving away from materials that can't be accessed organically and along with their fabric blinds offer consumers more choice in keeping their homes environmentally friendly.
Honeycomb window shades are another organic blind for a very different reason. They take the natural honeycomb shape and apply it to their window shades which offers a vast reduction in energy loss from the window itself. Also known as cell window shades, these blinds offer a hexagonal core flute that reduces the loss of warmth in the home and keeps it cool in winter.
This is a novel idea as it mimics natural ideas offering incredible results.